2013年11月2日 星期六

拉克蘭毛衣 (Raglan Sleeve) // 中英對照編織方法~為我的外國學生作筆記!

Measurements:ex.:Head:56cm Chest:88cm (頭圍56公分、胸圍88公分)

Materials:loops(one red /3 blue) (準備3個顏色一樣的記號圈與一個別色記號圈)

Needle:Japanese-40cm No.6&8 round needle and 60cm No.8 round needle (6&8號40公分與8號60公分輪針)All depends on what kind of yarn. (不同的線用不同的針號)
Tension /Gauge:10 x10 cm for 18 stitches by 21row → 1 x 1 cm for 1.8 stitches by 2.1 row

(密度為10公分見方有18針21段 → 因此1公分為1.8針2.1段)

Cast on: Head 56cm*1.8s=100.8s, round up to 101s, and round up to even stitches so make it 102s.

(起針總數為:頭圍56公分乘1.8針等於100.8針四拾五入為101針,建議起針為偶數針目故為102針)

1.) 102s/3=34s for front and back side(前後片的針數) 34s/2=17s for sleeves(袖子的針數 )
Use 40cm No.6 round needle, continental cast-on 102stitchs, place different color(red) loop/marker at beginning. Count 34s / back side, place another loop(blue), 17s /right sleeve place a loop(blue), then 34s/ front side place for last loop(blue), The last 17stitches for left sleeve.

用40公分6號輪針起102針,用不同色的記號圈放在一開始的起針處,數34針後放相同顏色記號圈(這34針為後片),數17針後再放一個(這17針是右袖),再數34針後再放一個記號圈(這是前片),最後一定剩17針為左袖

2.) Stockinette stitch (all knit) for 6 rows, rib stitch for 6 rows, then begin increase.

用6號40公分輪針,起好針後直接以下針編織6段平面針目,再編織6段單鬆緊針(一個下針、一個上針)。換8號40公分輪針、用下針開始編織。
Increase:88cm/2=44cm for front and back side 44cm*1.8stitchs=79.2→80stischs

加針計算方式:胸圍88公分/2分前後片=44公分 44公分*1.8針=79.2針,進位為80針
Increase from 34stitches to 80 stitches for front and back side, (前後片,自34針加至80針)

The 13th row, change to 40cm No.8 round needle. After the first maker, knit one stitch, then make one stitch (i.e., increase one stitch). Continue remaining till one stitch before the marker. The 14th row, knit one stitch in back loop (through back loop) with every increase stitch. Increase every other row, It means every 2 row will increase 8 stitches.

Use this pattern for 34 to 80 stitches. When the needle has too many stitches and feel tight, also can change to 60cm No.8 round needle.

第13段,在號圈後先織一個下針,再加針(掛1針),編織其餘針目,在下一個記號圈前一針先掛一針再織下針,過記號圈後,先織一個下針,再加針(掛1針)。也就是說在每一個記號圈的前後一針做掛針的加針。
第14段,在加針處織扭針(才不會出現一個洞),其餘續編織下針。

所以,以上、 每隔一段加一次針,也就是每兩段總針數會增加8針。
如次反覆直到正面針目數由34針加至80針。在編織過程中若覺得針目數太多不好編織時可更換成8號60公分輪針繼續編織。

3.) Only knit the back (80stitches), :stockinette stitch (all knit) at front side and reverse stockinette stitch at back side for 8 rows. (因為是片狀編織故僅編織後片的針目數共80針,在正面全部織下針、背面織上針,一共織8段)

4.) Knit one more row for back, then using the clip, draw through all the stitches of the right sleeve (total 63 stitches), (再編織一段後片針目,然後將右袖的針目數用別針串起來待織)
Loosely for the body:4cm*1.8s=7.6s → 8s (鬆份:4公分*1.8針=7.6針,四拾五入為8針)

5.) Before knitting the front side, make 8 stitches(increase 8 stitches), Draw through all left sleeve stitches onto the clip. Make 8 stitches again(increase 8 stitches).Now total stitches is176.(編織前片之前,先加8針在輪針上再繼續編織;將左袖的針目數用別針串起來待織後再加8針,如此身片總針數為176針)
6.) Continue knitting until you reach the desired length. (持續編織直到所需的長度)
7.) For the hem: rib stitch for 6 rows, and Stockinette stitch (all knit) for another 6 rows,
8.) Bind off:slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over knit stitch (left slanting decrease) (similar to ssk) , weave in ends.(滑一針、織一下針、將滑針套過下針,如此套收直到結束再藏線頭)
9.) For the short sleeve:Thread all the clipped stitches back on the 40cm No.6 round needle. Pick up the 8 stitches added in step 5 , and pick up from the 8 row of back side (in step 3) for 5 stitches.(Total stitches :76). Rib stitch for 6 rows, and Stockinette stitch (all knit) for another 6 rows.(將別針上的所有待織針目移回6號40公分輪針上,加上在身片上增加的8針,並自後片單獨編織的8段中挑出5針,如此總針數為76針。起好針後先編織6段單鬆緊針(一個下針、一個上針),再以下針編織6段平面針目。
Bind off:slip 1,knit 1, pass slipped stitch over knit stitch (left slanting decrease) (similar to ssk) , weave in ends.(滑一針、織一下針、將滑針套過下針,如此套收直到結束再藏線頭)

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